My Menuism Chinese Restaurant Articles Discussing Chinese Food in the Context of Chinese-American History, Demographics and Culture are at http://chandavkl2.blogspot.com
Friday, October 1, 2021
Tso'l Food Los Angeles
Tuesday, September 7, 2021
What We Ate In Honolulu
The great thing about having foodie kids is that they can take you to great restaurants that you never would think of going to yourself. This was doubly so if you go with them on a food eating vacation like we did with my daughter and her husband a few years ago on an eating trip to Hong Kong. This time we tagged along as they went to Honolulu on a six day eating expedition. Due to COVID issues and the rush for mainlanders to visit Hawaii, many restaurants were reservation only. Upon landing on a Tuesday, and after battling our way through Honolulu Airport's COVID clearance process, we arrived late for lunch at our first destination, The Surfing Pig in the Waielae-Kahala area east of Waikiki. It was in an interesting neighborhood with a nice mix of Asian ethnic restaurants. Before they seated us, they took our temperatures and had us fill out what turned out to be a contact tracing form, which turned out to be a routine part of most of our restaurant visits, though this one was the most elaborate. The Surfing Pig is part of the Kono Group, a small chain of restaurants in Hawaii which also has a location in Las Vegas.
The loco moco was terrific, as was the bed of fried rice.
The chicken waffles were also very good.
Tuesday dinner was on King St. at Sushi Izakaya Gaku, set at 5pm like most of our dinners because of baby Jemma's schedule. Given that lunch ended after 2pm because of our airport delay, plus slow service at lunch, that left a small gap until dinnertime. Nevertheless the dinner was great starting with the kanpachi.
Don't remember ever eating sushi better than what was served here.
Equally tasty was the miso butterfish. Of course this wasn't ordinary food but the $65 per person was well worth it.
Wednesday's lunch was at Wagaya Ramen, one of the few unreserved meals on the trip. We arrived at the restaurant early to sign in, then waited until the restaurant opened, at which time there were almost enough patrons to fill the small restaurant. This was the best of the best as far as trip meals were concerned. The Wagaya ramen shiro was out of the world, even better than Tsujita in Los Angeles.
And the tempera corn appetizer was certainly something we've never seen.
At dinner time we drove to the nearby Tonkatsu Ginza Bairin, which was reserved two months in advance, for their signature Kurobota pork tonkatsu. They only prepare only 10 portions of this dish every day, so it pays to reserve an early table. Frankly, the tonkatsu was great, but the Kurobota pork loin was too fatty for its own good.
The regular pork tonkatsu platter was actually much better.
After dinner we headed to Ice Monster, the only US branch of the Taiwanese shaved ice chain, which we had been dreaming of since our November, 2019 trip to Taiwan, and in my pre-trip scouting had discovered was only 250 feet away from the Hyatt Centric where we were staying. Ice Monster's shaved ice is unique since it is made from a block of ice that already has the flavoring infused. Better than Matsumoto's north shore ice. The mango and strawberry ices were a hit with everybody.
Thursday's lunch was a short drive away at Jade Dynasty in the Ala Moana Shopping Center, my designated Chinese restaurant for the trip. We started off with their crispy baked bbq pork buns, which were hot out of the even and as good as anybody's.
The rest of the dim sum was passable by San Gabriel Valley standards, with the deep fried green shrimp chive balls being the most interesting.
The seldom seen scallop cheung fun were just ordinary.
Another seldom seem variety, deep fried fish balls, were quite good.
Jade Dynasty may have overdone it with the deep frying, as I did not expect the tiger shrimp bean curd rolls to be deep fried. Not that they were bad.
Likewise Jade Dynasty's Seafood Corn Pancakes were deep fried.
This was the pork belly confit.
Kalbi beef.
Surprisingly the best entree was the unassuming looking seaweed salmon.
But the real highlight was corn on the cub which really wasn't, but rather corn ice cream made with a mold that looked like corn on the cob.
For dinner we headed back to Chinatown and Lucky Belly, literally around the corner from O'Kim. Lucky Belly had an interesting complement of appetizers with the signature dish being the oxtail dumplings.
Personally I was more partial to the crispy duck tacos
The pork belly buns were a decent version of gua bao.
Here's the lobster siu mai.
I thought all the appetizers were better than their signature monster ramen bowl with brisket and oxtail won ton, which was pretty good though.
Sunday lunch was at a Vietnamese restaurant, Piggie Smalls, the second branch of the acclaimed Vietnamese restaurant in Chinatown, The Pig and The Lady. The main attraction as Piggy Smalls was the french dip pho, a brisket on a french roll, with the dipping sauce being a flavorful pho broth with optional pho. Certainly an innovative and delicious dish.
The giant chicken wings looked better than they tasted.
Since this was our last full day in Honolulu, I wanted to find a li hing/crackseed store before going home, if I could. As it turns out, the only one anywhere close to the hotel turned out just a block away from Piggy Smalls. So after lunch it was a quick walk to Lin’s Hawaiian Snacks which was full of products like li hing gummy bears, powdered li hing, mui, ginger and other dried snacks.
And just a half block away was It's Tea, which had some interesting flavored drinks including lilikoi green tea and pineapple Earl Gray.
Dinner was at Roy’s, which was much better than the Mainland branches. Dinner started with an absolutely fabulous appetizer, particularly the ahi poke tuna, shown here with the Hong Kong crab cakes.
The salmon, and macadamia crusted catch of the day were quite good. But by far the star of the show was the signature misoyaki butterfish. The most delicious fish dish I have ever eaten.
However the recommended mochi crusted catch of the day was entirely ordinary. A real disappointment and it's hard to figure out why it was recommended so highly by the waiter.
Since it was my birthday earlier in the month I was rewarded with this birthday dessert.
All in all a great meal at Roy's, though probably not worth the almost $100 per person.
Last food in Honolulu before flying out Monday was ahi poke from the Coco Cove store on Kalakaua Ave. First, spicy.
Then non spicy, much better.
And don't forget snacks on the plane from the imaginary Pau Hana Cafe, the brand name used by Hawaiian Airlines for their onboard food. Hey, any free airline food on a domestic flight is appreciated.
Friday, August 27, 2021
Chinese Restaurant Mysteries Part III - Ace Burgers
Since it's been almost exactly 10 years since I've written up a Chinese restaurant mystery dealing with a puzzling Chinese restaurant event the time is ripe for another such article which just solved itself. One year ago, Tianjin Feng Wei opened up on Valley Blvd. in Alhambra in the depths of the pandemic, one of perhaps just a handful of new Chinese restaurants that opened up in the San Gabriel Valley after the pandemic hit late last winter. Any new Chinese restaurant opening at that time was puzzling, and Tianjin Feng Wei's opening was doubly puzzling because they opened up in an abandoned restaurant storefront that had been vacant for five years, and known as a graveyard for Chinese restaurants with 10 different Chinese restaurant occupants over the years.
As it turned out, Tianjin Feng Wei was a gem. Their Tianjin style pork buns were fantastic and raved about by online commentators. Their beef bing was excellent, not as good as the version at Beijing Pie House, but when Beijing Pie House failed to survive the pandemic Tianjin Feng Wei became a go-to source for beef pies for many people. And a number of their other dishes were excellent too. But then suddenly this past March there was a notice that the restaurant would be temporarily closed for a week. Fine, it's not unusual for small restaurants to go on vacation. But upon reopening a week later, while the building signage still said Tianjin Feng Wei, the sign in the window and the menu now said Ace Burgers!
Of course Chinese restaurants get sold all the time, quite often with a new name and a new style of cooking. But in this case the quick flip of a popular new restaurant was unusual, as was the speed in opening the new style restaurant. The latter was quickly explained by the fact that the restaurant was not sold, but merely rebranded by the owner with an entirely different menu. So the change in cuisine could just be a business decision that the new menu would be more successful than the old one, though that didn't seem to be probable, since they had the only Tianjin pork buns in town. And adding to the puzzle was the fact that Ace Burgers did not sell burgers. Rather, the new menu consisted of chicken sandwiches and fried chicken.
Fortunately all this has just been explained by social media stars the Fung Bros in their new video on latest food trends in the San Gabriel Valley, and who once were so nice to refer to me as the "OG Chinese foodie" (whatever that means.) As it turns out, McDonald's in China has created a spicy chicken sandwich which is the rage of not only China, but all throughout East Asia. Likewise, KFC has created a similar product with their spicy chicken wings. Consequently, Ace Burgers has a menu that strives to duplicate the popular chicken dishes served by McDonald's and KFC in China. And why the name Ace Burgers if they don't serve burgers? Because in China, chicken sandwiches are known as chicken burgers. And now the flip to Ace Burgers makes perfect sense.
Sunday, August 1, 2021
Guide To My Video Appearances (Revised September 2026)
Recently I thought it would be a good idea to have a central location for the various video appearances I have made during my Celebrity Diner period. However that goal proved more elusive than I had imagined as a combination of technical issues and copyright law prevented the use of any single hosting site for the videos I wanted to post. It took a combination of YouTube, Facebook and Dailymotion postings to find a home for the videos I wanted to upload. Consequently, this write-up turns out to be the one-stop repository I wanted, providing the various links to the uploaded videos.
Goldthread Video Documentary Interview With Clarissa Wei. Back in 2012 when Clarissa Wei did her LA Weekly article about my Chinese restaurant list that went viral around the world, I figured that was the lightning strike that gave me my 15 minutes of fame. Surprisingly I received an unrelated additional 15 minutes of fame the next year where Frank Shyong wrote his Los Angeles Times Page One article on my Chinese restaurant eating adventures. And in 2014 there was a third 15 minutes of fame when I appeared in the Chinese food documentary, The Search For General Tso. As a result of these three episodes I had reached a comfortable level of recognition in the Chinese food journalism community such that I could write my own articles related to Chinese restaurants in America and occasionally be contacted by food journalists for interviews and quotes. In 2016 I received a message from a budding filmmaker named Sarah Coakley who thought my story was interesting and wondered if I would be interested in being the subject of a short film documentary. I was a bit dubious and a quick search did show film industry connections, though no projects of her own. I never received any followup and I don't think she ever actually produced anything, but that was OK with me since I had already experienced more time in the spotlight that I had ever dreamed and being the subject of a documentary seemed far fetched. Little did I know that the biggest and best was yet to come.
In late 2018 I was contacted by Clarissa Wei, who was now a senior producer for Hong Kong's South China Morning Post English language daily newspaper's video arm called Goldthread 2. She said she would be coming for a visit back to Los Angeles to shoot a few short videos and thought it would be nice to do a sequel to her 2012 interview with me on a different medium for a different audience. That sounded interesting and fun, so I met her in February of 2019 in the San Gabriel Valley and we shot scenes in Monterey Park, San Gabriel and Temple City. After two months of post-production work, Goldthread released the video in April of 2019 and it was an immediate hit under various titles including "Obsessed" and "The Restaurant Collector." I had all of 500 Instagram followers at the time of release, a number I was quite proud of since I really hadn't done anything to promote a following. Within two weeks of the Goldthread release, the number jumped to 1,500 followers. And mind you it's not like there was a link or anything from the Goldthread video to my Instagram page. These people had to track down my Instagram page to follow me. But perhaps the bigger surprise was that the video has gone through waves of new viewers in the ensuing four years. The video has now been viewed 1.3 million times on various platforms. Surprisingly the number of YouTube viewings has been a relatively small portion of the total, only 40,000 views at the time of release, and another 200,000 plus views in 2021 when the video broke into YouTube's autoplay rotation for several weeks. Rather, the bulk of the viewings have been on Facebook, where the original Goldthread posting has been supplemented by several discussion thread links posted by members of the powerhouse Facebook group Subtle Asian Traits and its nearly 2 million members. As a result, the repeated viewings of the video raised my Instagram count to over 3,600 by the fall of 2021. (Subsequent exposure on BBC, noted below, raised the Instagram count to 17,000.) Oh, and this is essentially the documentary about me that didn't get made in 2016. The Goldthread video can be found on YouTube here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMuSEuuZTeM
The Search For General Tso. While nobody has told me directly, I presume I was interviewed for the Chinese food documentary The Search For General Tso because of Clarissa Wei's 2012 print article. My recent blogpost Me And General Tso capsulizes my involvement with the movie. Uploading a copy of the movie proved to be an extremely daunting task and being successful was nearly miraculous. The first issue was finding a digital copy of the movie. Surprisingly there were numerous postings purporting to let you see the movie for free, but they were all scam sites designed to get you to download suspicious software. The biggest miracle was finding the movie online with no strings attached. Of course, that was only part of the solution since the copyright police is always on patrol, so while the movie might be here today it could be gone tomorrow. So the next issue was making a copy of the file. Fortunately I have software that captures streaming video and it was able to download the movie. But uploading the movie was also a big challenge. Due to various limitations, running from copyright filtering to file size limitations, YouTube, Dailymotion and Vimeo could not be used to park the video file. However, I discovered that Facebook was one site that allowed the upload of large files, and I posted it here. https://www.facebook.com/Chandavkl/videos/10158826336196477
WHYNOT-WAINAO Melting Wok San Gabriel Valley interview. This was deja vu all over again as I reprised my walking tour/sit down Chinese restaurant format as in the Goldthread and Hong Kong Daily Apple News videos with some overlap in locales. Actually, I met with producer Rachel Chen from Washington DC after receiving an email addressed to "Mr. David Chandavkl" in Los Angeles Chinatown September of 2022 at Pearl River Deli to discuss the premise and logistics of the video shoot for the Los Angeles segment of what became the Melting Wok videos. The return visit for the video shoot was originally scheduled for December of 2022, but then postponed until April of 2023, when I was interviewed by Taiwanese American food personality Tzu-i Chuang Mullinax. With an extended post-production period, the video was released on the day after Christmas in 2023. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrIJjU3hpjk
Warner Bros. Family Style Chinese Buffet Episode. The background on how I became a Warner Bros. cartoon character in 2020 sharing billing with actor/comedian Jimmy O. Yang (whose last name really is Auyang) are in my prior posting describing the production of the Stage 13 video. https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7wezh6 Because of the HBO/Warner Bros. affiliation, it was streamed on HBO Max for a period of time. Technically that made Family Style a TV show and theoretically gives me a television credit. Note that when HBO Max became the sole outlet for the show the former links to YouTube and the Stage 13 websites became inactive.
Los Angeles Times Off Menu. Another video with hundreds of thousands of views was the one with Los Angeles Times food columnist Lucas Kwan Petersen in 2019 where I described how historic housing discrimination against minorities in Los Angeles led to the establishment of a giant suburban Chinatown in the San Gabriel Valley. Fortunately my segment is at the front end of the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEghvcaBi5c
BBC World News Television Interview. Companion piece to a written English language article on the BBC website in November of 2021, which had been preceded by a BBC article in Chinese, the interview probably reached the greatest audience of anything I had been involved with. The content was not wildly different from past articles and interviews but being on BBC was an unprecedented platform, constituting an unexpected fifth strike of lightning, and an overnight addition of 13,000 additional Instagram followers. However, this televised interview was really secondary to the website article, which became the most viewed item on the BBC site, and which led to a hastily arranged live appearance on BBC World News on Thanksgiving Day. https://twitter.com/i/status/1464073116280229890
Hong Kong Daily Apple Video Documentary Interview. Essentially a Chinese language recreation by the Chinese language Hong Kong Daily Apple newspaper of Clarissa Wei's 2018 video, shot in late 2019 with Daily Apple reporter Gabrielle Chang before the pandemic and modified and released in the fall of 2020 to reflect the effect of the pandemic. Note that with the government shutdown of Hong Kong Daily Apple the original article and video are no longer online on any Daily Apple website, but if you want a PDF copy of the article please contact me. The video is at https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7wp6ya
China Global Television Network. In one way this is the most flattering video involvement for me, part of China Global Television's Tso'l Food hosted by Gerald Tan. The premise of this series is to show viewers Chinese food from communities around the United States. When I was contacted by the show they had only done episodes from Washington DC, where China Global has their United States headquarters. When they asked me whether I would be available to do an interview with them, I assumed that Los Angeles was their next stop on the map, since Los Angeles has the best Chinese food in America. However during our video shoot in Los Angeles, he told me that he and his crew planned their visit to Los Angeles only when I accepted their invitation to appear, and if I had not accepted they would not have come to Los Angeles! https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=605895503889419&external_log_id=969dedb8-2424-476e-a7d8-b39dda86fd99&q=tsol%20food
Subsequently, a separate Tso'l Food Los Angeles episode was released on Chinese New Year's Day 2022 in which I do an introduction for each of the businesses visited. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Jy0EQcInoE
Interview with Australian Channel 7. Appearance in the wake of Clarissa Wei's original print article. Little did I know that Australian Channel 7 had a TV studio in Century City, three blocks from my office at the time, and which is where I was interviewed by the Australian hosts. Some background on that live TV broadcast which occurred at 5pm Friday afternoon in Century City but was around 7am in Sydney are in my prior posting. https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7vulrr
Chinese Historical Society of Southern California video program. In May 2026 I gave a Zoom presentation "How Los Angeles Rose From Oblivion To Become The Chinese Food Capital of the United States." Here's the YouTube replay. https://youtu.be/d42ncHl8rw0
TriBeCa Film Festival Appearance. In connection with the premiere of The Search For General Tso at the 2014 TriBeCa Film Festival, I was part of the post screening Q&A. An interesting sidebar to this session was that when director Ian Chaney called me onstage to participate in the Q&A I figured I would be basically a stage prop with all of the questions directed to Chaney. So as soon as I got on stage I wanted to get my two cents in right off the bat and thanked Chaney for creating a film that went beyond the food history and told "our story," i.e. of discrimination and abuse faced by the Chinese in America. Imagine my surprise when some time later when the General Tso movie went into release, I came across an interview with Chaney where he described his nervousness at the start of the Q&A at TriBeCa, presumably because he didn't know what the audience reaction to his film might be, and he specifically recounted how my opening comment had put him at ease as it validated what he had done. This 30 second clip gives a flavor of what it was like. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo-oh1_tDjo
KCET Asian Food and Culture Show. In 2013 I appeared on a KCET special highlighting Asian foods and cultures along with Clarissa Wei. It was kind of dumb in that it discussed Asian food in Los Angeles, but Asian culture in Asia as highlighted by excerpts from episodes of the Globetrekker TV series. I was on the set (Lunasia Restaurant in Alhambra) for several hours for just a couple minutes of air time as described in this prior post, and lost my copy of the video when my TiVo crashed. All I have is Clarissa's video of my Chinese restaurant list, and a shot of Clarissa's television showing the program. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qy_yajF1K0
Closing of Chinese Friends Restaurant in Los Angeles Chinatown. Right before Chinese Friends Restaurant ended its 50 year run in 2022, I received a call from the Los Angeles Chinatown business group asking if I wanted to have one last meal there. Little did I know that they were doing a video on the closure and asked me about the significance. https://www.instagram.com/p/Ch0GKDujAvf/
USC Annenberg School of Journalism Video. I make a brief appearance in this short video on the evolving nature of Los Angeles Chinatown. https://www.facebook.com/521061476/videos/1458525189407743/
Third party video based on Frank Shyong's Los Angeles Times profile of me. As a celebrity diner I've gotten a far more detailed look at some very strange things on the internet that most people are not aware of. One is this video which was inspired by the 2013 Los Angeles Times column one article about me. It is a high quality, polished video which starts with a mention of the article, then throws in a movie clip of Ashton Kutcher ordering Chinese food, followed by a bunch of related and unrelated topics. What the ....? https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9re8lehttps://dai.ly/x9re8lehttps://dai.ly/x9re8le
Robot reading BBC article about visiting almost 8,000 restaurants. If the previous video above wasn't the strangest one of the bunch, the YouTube video of a robot reading the BBC English language article about me certainly is. Perhaps if the robot were sophisticated and could pick up the nuances of the English language this would make sense. But it doesn't. https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x867nla
Followup Goldthread Video. My subsequent appearance on the Goldthread show plugging Clarissa Wei's Goldthread documentary. You have to skip to about the 31 minute mark to find me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mOVc1Hrvho
Evolving With Chinatown. A 2026 short documentary on the current state of Los Angeles Chinatown with a focus on mom and pop businesses includes a 30 second interview with me. https://www.dailymotion.com/partner/x28mfm9/media/video/details/xbfm996
It Takes All Kinds. Before becoming a celebrity diner, there was a period of about 10 years where I made public appearances on behalf of the Chinese Historical Society of Southern California, including a show on the CBS television station Los Angeles, then known as KNXT, called It Takes All Kinds. This was in 1979, back in the day where the federal government required all commercial television stations to broadcast some minimum amount of public service programming to maintain their licenses. I appeared on an episode dealing with ethnic communities in Los Angeles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KG2lZEAMl4
Thursday, July 1, 2021
Critics Of Los Angeles Chinatown's Food Revival Get It Wrong
In a lengthy well written, thought provoking article posted yesterday on Eater LA, writer Cathy Chaplin addresses the intersection of the food based revival of Los Angeles Chinatown and the impact of this development on the existing community. In particular it focuses on an organization called Chinatown Community for Equitable Development (CCED) which chides the influx of new, independently owned eateries and other businesses into Los Angeles Chinatown for failing to address the inequities taking place on their new home turf. This viewpoint was contested by one of the new business owners, who operates Oriel, a French wine bar, who said “Is Oriel displacing anyone? I mean it was a dilapidated building, which is being broken into and having homeless encampments, so it seems like a better use to me.”
The problem with the position taken by CCED is that it is completely oblivious to the history of Los Angeles Chinatown. Los Angeles Chinatown started dying decades ago when the San Gabriel Valley emerged as the magnet for Chinese Americans and other Asian Americans. When was it when I started to feel uncomfortable in Chinatown after dark because there was little activity and the streets were dark? 30 years ago? 40 years ago? Certainly well before the time that any of the CCED members have personal recollections. How many years did Chinatown go without any new construction? I mean nobody is going to build anything in a dying community. There was no way Los Angeles was going to remain a vibrant, complete Chinese community. It’s revival has been awesome.
And unlike San Francisco, Manhattan, or even Philadelphia, Boston or Chicago, Los Angeles Chinatown is not an historic one. Historic Los Angeles Chinatown was torn down in the 1930s so they could build the new Union Station railroad terminal. In its place "New Chinatown" on Broadway was constructed in the late 1930s to replace Old Chinatown. (While not totally obsolete, references to "New Chinatown" today are definitely disappearing.) Except that New Chinatown did not replace Old Chinatown as a community. Rather New Chinatown was effectively one of the pioneering theme parks of Los Angeles, featuring curio shops, wishing wells, restaurants, the organ grinder with his monkey, and other tourist activities, but nearly devoid of Chinese residents (who largely moved to residential areas adjunct to the Chinese dominated City Market wholesale produce terminal) or everyday businesses. New Chinatown comprised the area sometimes referred to today as Chinatown Plaza, and the southern boundary of New Chinatown was College Street, meaning that there were no streets with vehicular traffic, just pedestrian walkways with street names such as Gin Ling Way, Mei Ling Way and Sun Mun Way. Anything in what people consider Los Angeles Chinatown today that was south of College Street was either not Chinese (quite possibly Italian), or if you headed south to Ord Street or Spring Street, a separate Chinese area that was an extension of the original Old Chinatown. So it's no surprise that my family seldom visited New Chinatown in the 1950s, 1960s and early 1970s and I have very few recollections of the area.
Things changed drastically in the late 1960s as the effect of the 1965 immigration laws which effectively raised the annual immigration quota for people of Chinese descent from 105 to 20,000 took hold. Los Angeles Chinatown saw an influx from new immigrants from Hong Kong who piled into the residential areas west of Chinatown. Restaurants offering modern Cantonese food from Hong Kong livened the food scene. Meanwhile, the physical gap between New Chinatown and the Ord Street/Spring Street was filled with Chinese commerce, creating the geographic Chinatown community that we know of today.
Los Angeles Chinatown boomed in the 1970s and early 1980s, generating a never before seen level of activity, with new construction, new restaurants, and a completely new vibe. We joined the crowds on Sunday morning waiting to get into Grandview Gardens for dim sum and cheered every new Chinese restaurant that opened, especially the opening of the complex unofficially known as Food Street, now known as Far East Plaza, and present home to eateries like Pearl River Deli and Howlin Ray's.
But the boom didn't last that long. With renewed immigration from mainland China years away due to the lack of diplomatic relations between the United States and Mainland China, the initial wave of post-1965 Chinese immigration originated in Hong Kong and Taiwan, and the Taiwanese never showed up in Los Angeles Chinatown. While new Hong Kong immigrants felt comfortable in Los Angeles' Cantonese speaking Chinatown, such was not the case with the Mandarin speaking Taiwanese migrants. So they headed to Monterey Park where growing Chinese American and Japanese American communities were sprouting. Chinese and Japanese Americans had been relegated by segregated housing patterns largely to neighborhoods in South and East Los Angeles. But around 1960, new residential communities were developed in Monterey Park by real estate developers who were willing to sell houses to Chinese and Japanese Americans. And by 1970, there were already 2,000 Chinese Americans living in Monterey Park.
Of course the changes did not occur overnight. Monterey Park did not get its first authentic Hong Kong style restaurant until 1975 or a banquet sized Chinese restaurant until about three years later, so Los Angeles Chinatown still remained the dominant Chinese community for a while. Meanwhile major Chinese restaurant openings continued in Chinatown with the 1975 opening of Miriwa (and the first dim sum carts in Los Angeles), the 1979 opening of the Food Street complex and the 1984 opening of ABC Seafood. But then the axis turned, in my opinion in 1986 when ABC Seafood opened its gigantic Monterey Park sister restaurant NBC Seafood.
Whether the key date was 1975, 1978 or 1986, or likely no particular year, it's clear that the San Gabriel Valley sucked the life out of Los Angeles Chinatown as it became the center of Chinese activity in the Los Angeles metro area. The large restaurant space in the front of Food Street turned into a bank. In the 1980s and 1990s many Chinese Angelinos started denigrating Los Angeles Chinatown as being a Vietnamese, not Chinese enclave. A generation of Chinese Americans has grown up in the San Gabriel Valley, many of whom have never set foot in Los Angeles Chinatown. There was no direction for Los Angeles Chinatown to go but down.
So it's not like today's new eateries and stores, whether modern Asian or not Asian at all are encroaching on hallowed ground. To the contrary, they have revitalized something which would not have revitalized organically. It's sad to see these merchants berated for something for which they should be praised, because otherwise we would end up like Washington DC Chinatown. In Washington DC Chinatown, every business is required to include Chinese language signage for their business. So, for example, the Chinese name for Hooters Restaurant there translates to "Owl Cafe". But Washington DC Chinatown also has one street referred to as "Chinablock." That's because that block is the only thing Chinese left in Washington DC Chinatown. At least we have a Chinatown which is still relevant to myself and many other Chinese Americans.
Tuesday, June 1, 2021
The Lost Television Appearance
One television appearance I have little record of was a TV show done in the fall of 2013 called Asian Communities. I did TiVo the recording when it appeared on the air in early 2014, but that machine later crashed and the recording was unrecoverable. In any event that was no great loss as my appearance was hardly worth it except for the fact that it provided interesting insight on how TV shows are made. This was a segment of an irregular series that KCET used to air called Global Communities, a spotlight on LA ethnic communities. Clarissa Wei and I did the taping at Lunasia Restaurant in Alhambra, where we sat for four hours. I'm not sure if our total air time was 5 minutes. So why did it take four hours to get a brief amount of air time? First they ran late at their previous venue. Then there was a union mandated one hour lunch break, which the technicians couldn't waive even if they wanted to (which they did because they were running late). Then we'd reshoot scenes over and over, which was very confusing because it made it difficult for me to back reference anything I previously said since it was hard to remember how the previous segment ended up. One really odd thing was that even though this show was seen only on KCET in Los Angeles, the hostess. Angela May, was flown in from New York. And while I met with the show directors during the week to go over what they would be talking about, I didn't meet the hostess until I got to the restaurant. It was only then that she was briefed on what the interview would cover. So the gal was in reality like an actress reading her lines. Meanwhile, the segment producer who did the pre-interview legwork, a gal named Alice Robertson, turns out to be a "model, actress and archaeologist" who hosted a TV show on the History Channel. And the old guy who was the production assistant had one acting appearance in addition to dozens of TV production credits. And the final show itself was disappointing because half the show was inserts of Globetrekker segments shot in Asia, having nothing to do with LA. The only good things are (1) it's a credential to say I was on KCET, and (2) they asked me to bring a print out of my restaurant list and the hostess flipped through it at the start of the interview.





