Recently I’ve seen comments made that the best Chinese food in America
can be found in Las Vegas. While I agree
that Las Vegas serves the most expensive Chinese food in the US, and that some
of this expensive food is quite good, one cannot say that Chinese food in Las
Vegas' restaurants tops that in Los Angeles, San Francisco, New York, or even a few other cities.
My
suspicion that the comments elevating the status of Las Vegas Chinese food are
attributable to a comment made several years ago by Ruth Reichl of the New York
Times. In an interview she did say that
the best Chinese food in the US was in Las Vegas. However she qualified her statement significantly by saying
she was referring to private invitation dinners provided by the casinos to
their high roller Chinese clientele. And
clearly at the time she made that statement, the high quality Chinese food designation
clearly did not extend to Chinese restaurants open to the public, nor does it do so today.
Now
there is good and authentic Chinese food to be found in Las Vegas, particularly
since the construction of the Las Vegas Chinatown mall on Spring Mountain Blvd.
in 1995. Actually there had been better
than average Chinese food available in Las Vegas for quite a while. At one point probably 25 or 30 years ago it
had been noted by the L.A. Times that a number of casinos served top notch
Chinese food, but only after midnight.
Presumably this was to satisfy Chinese high rollers who gambled through
the night. Then as the Las Vegas Chinese
community grew in the early 1990s, a few authentic Chinese restaurants started
to open up away from the Strip, such as Emperor’s Table on Decatur and Chinese
Garden on Sahara. With the opening of
Chinatown Plaza with its roster of Los Angeles based Chinese restaurants including Sam Woo BBQ, 1 6 8, Plum Tree Inn and D.D.’s CafĂ©, Las Vegas
had truly arrived as a city having a selection of authentic Chinese food
choices.
Interestingly,
Las Vegas continues to attract Los Angeles area Chinese restaurants that set up
branches there. And we’re not talking
about large, widely known Chinese restaurants, but rather smaller, niche
players, like Shaanxi Gourmet, Dong Ting, Kim Tar and Yunnan Garden. Meanwhile, in the casinos on the Strip,
virtually every hotel has opened at least one, if not two Chinese restaurants
on premises. An interesting concept was
the establishment of branches of well known existing Chinese restaurants in the casinos, such
as Cathay House, K J Dim Sum, Sea Harbour (via Vancouver and Los Angeles) and
Royal Star (via Santa Monica, and known as Ocean Star in Monterey Park).
However, the experiment seems not to have worked as K J Dim Sum in the
Rio appears to be the only one still operating.
I'm sure that existing restaurants
were used by the casinos to attract Chinese Americans familiar with these restaurants, which
seemed like a winning strategy. Indeed, opening
a branch of Sea Harbour, likely the best Chinese restaurant in the Los Angeles
area and one of the better Chinese restaurants in Vancouver, in Caesar’s Palace
seemed like a sure thing. One can only
speculate what went wrong as the restaurant never had much success from day one. The reviews
were bad from the start and the complaints about the pricing were loud. My guess is that they tweaked the menu to
appeal to non-Chinese diners and marketed it as a highly upscale
restaurant. In so doing they alienated
their core followers as to both quality and price. Meanwhile the brand name
was meaningless to the non-Chinese who had never heard of them.
In
the casinos the question is whether any of the upscale Chinese restaurants that have opened up are authentically good.
In at least one case, Hakkasan in the MGM, the answer is yes. Since its rollout in Manhattan a couple of
years ago, Hakkasan has advanced the concept of upscale but authentic Cantonese
food in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Miami and Las Vegas, and has done it so
well it makes one wonder why nobody did it before. Whether this will be a growing trend in Las
Vegas or not is the $64 question. Wing
Lei which opened up in the Wynn a few years ago has a Michelin star, but its
menu is decidedly inauthentic, plus apparently they lost the star chef who
originally opened up the restaurant. So
for now, we’re still waiting for great Chinese food to arrive in Las Vegas at
multiple venues accessible to us mere mortals.